Some thoughts on the simple pool stick.

So now that you have been bitten by the pool bug, you want your own stick. But your first visit to the pro shop only leads to more questions. How can those darn things be priced anywhere from $50.00 to $5000.00.

With pool cues, the details make the difference! Those details are often the difference between a computer-designed mass-produced cue and a hand-crafted one-of-a-kind cue make from expensive and exotic materials. These are respectively called production cues and custom cues.

Which Cue is For You?
While there are many reasons why players and collectors buy fancy expensive cues, when it comes to the cue you will use day in and day out, the real determining factor is comfort and feel. And you are the only judge of that! That is why it is best to buy cues from a dealer who will allow me to play with it first, or who offers a money-back-guarantee period.

So, How Much Must You Spend?
There is a wide selection of very good, very functional cues in the $100.00 to $300.00 range. Such cues, if properly cared for can last a lifetime. Add a couple hundred dollars to the budget and you will find cues with better workmanship and more ornate design. After that, you can spend hundreds or thousands more on a one-of-a-kind cue handcrafted from exotic materials like ebony and ivory.

The only answer to which cue you should buy is the one you like and can afford. Some of us love to drive Chevettes and boast of saving money, while others of us aren't happy unless we are driving the latest European sports car. If a cue feels good and you enjoy owning it, it will certainly help your game!

Most players I know are happy if there are a couple of blue cubes on the table--brand doesn't matter. But others are more fussy and even carry their own. Is there any difference in brands? Should you carry your own chalk?

Everyone knows you must use chalk to play pool. Or, as a friend of mine used to say, "You only have to use chalk before the shots you want to make!"

For reasons no one can recall, the room where I worked had a supply of three different brands of chalk. One was Master Chalk, which is probably the most widely known. The owner claimed they were all the same chalk, made by the same company, thus there was no real difference. But after having several players specifically request Master Chalk, I decided to do a little experiment.

On a busy evening, I gave every table one cube of each brand of chalk and asked them to try them to determine if they had any preference. By the end of the night, 15 players had participated in the experiment. It was a fairly representative cross-section of players from total beginners to seasoned veterans.

Three players expressed no preference, but the other had a strong preference for Master Chalk, generally stating that it was smoother and more consistent. The other brands were often characterized as flaky or gritty, or as having a tendency to cake on the tip.

It didn't surprise me that the veteran players all favored Master Chalk, since they were the most likely to have developed a brand loyalty, but but all 4 of the beginners (all had played less than 2 months) also had a preference for Master's brand and described the differences similarly.

While I realize that such an experiment won't withstand scientific scrutiny, it is enough to convince me that there really is a difference in chalk. And that difference is the reason that Master Chalk is used in the majority of pool rooms and tournaments.

Your Own Chalk
I have always carried my own chalk. When I first learned to play, my mentor suggest carrying your own chalk as cheap insurance to always know what is on your tip. I can't say it has ever made a difference in my game, but there is some small peace of mind in never having to worry about what chalk is on the table, or what someone may have done to that chalk. And at 25 cents a cube, it is indeed cheap insurance.

To each his own.

Do you need a separate break cue? Should a break cue be light or heavy? Is the whole break cue concept just? Let's explore the issues.

Why a Separate Break Cue
Here are the most common arguments for needing and using a break cue:

1. They save wear and tear on the tip of your playing cue.
2. The tip on a break cue should be very hard to avoid loss of energy by compressing a soft tip.
3. They save wear and tear on your cue shaft.
4. They have stiffer shafts which means less deflection.
5. A lighter cue will accelerate faster and provide more break speed.
6. A heavier cue offers more mass for providing more break speed.

In every aspect of pool, technique is much more important than the equipment you choose. Breaking and break cues are no exception. Consider buying a break cue only after you've perfected your breaking technique and need to get every last ounce of energy to the cue ball. Until that time, a break cue will do little more than save minimal wear and tear on your cue tip. Breaking with your normal playing cue will not damage it. Players have used their normal cue to break for years before break cues became the rage.

So, let's take a look at these by-the- numbers, along with using house cues to break.

1. Spare the Tip
The argument that the tip on your playing cue cannot stand up to the rigors of breaking doesn't hold water in my experience, unless your playing with a soft tip. I shot pool for many years before buying a break cue, I used a variety of medium and hard tips on my playing cues (the same ones I broke with)--LePro, Moori, Triangle, etc.--and never experienced any mushrooming or extraordinary misshaping of the tip. Other brands may vary. Softer tips are especially prone to mushrooming anyway, so breaking would definitely accelerate the process.

2. Hard Tips
It is true that the ideal break cue will have a very hard tip. A softer tip will compress more and transfer less energy to the cue ball, although I have seen no evidence this makes a substantial difference. Like jump cues, all break cues come with very hard tips.

3. Spare the Shaft
This argument suggests that the shaft on a our playing cue cannot stand the power needed to break. We are led to believe they are snapping like twigs on break shots all across the land. Really? I have never seen anyone break a cue shaft by breaking in any game. Am I living in some pool-challenged locale of pool wimps that just can't break like real men? I don't think so.

4. Deflection
Minimal deflection in a break cue shaft is an important point. The shaft of any cue flexes or bends every time it strikes the cue ball; this is called deflection. Harder shots create more deflection. A very stiff (minimal deflection) shaft will transfer more energy than one that has more deflection. While these differences can be measured under laboratory conditions, but the effect on your break is hard to say.

5 & 6. Acceleration vs. Mass
Here we have two opposing points of view. A baseball player will usually choose a lighter bat to generate bat speed needed to hit the long ones (speed = power), but if you are trying to drive a spike in a board, you will use a sledgehammer instead of a tack hammer (mass = power). I can only tell you that every pro and expert I know subscribes to the speed=power concept when selecting a break cue, and thus prefers a lighter break cu. I know some players who use break cues as light as 16 oz. and love the results. Of course, I also know a few who use 22 oz. break sticks. You make the call!

Why Not Just Use a House Cue
Many players just grab a house cue for breaking. House cues are free, their shafts are generally thicker which means less deflection, and they spare the wear and tear on your playing cue's tip.

On the other hand, I find it a pain to find a decent house cue every time I play. I much prefer to play and practice with a cue I am familiar with and I know is always in my case. It is the right weight, has the right tip, and I know how to use it. No surprises! But that's just me.

Conclusion
Is an investment in a break cue essential? Not at all. As I have stated many times before, if you are just getting started, your money is better spent on books, tapes, personal instruction, and table time.

If you have developed a good break technique and are striving to transfer the maximum energy to the cue ball, I think the $300-400 investment in a break stick is worthwhile. You get convenience, consistency, and the best possible tool for the job. The real benefit of a break cue is not in any single component or design feature, but in the synergy created when all of the components are optimized for a single task. As with all cue purchases, I suggest you try before you buy!

Recommendations
I feel that the two best break cues on the market today are made by Mike Gulyassy and Predator Cues. Both the Gulyassy Sledgehammer ($350)and Predator BK ($375-395) are excellent cues. Also, several custom cue makers are now offering break cues and 3-piece combination jump/break cues.

I own both the Predator BK and Gulyassy Sledgehammer. I am big fan of Predator cues, but my personal preference for a break cue is the Gulyassy Sledgehammer. It is a 3-piece combination jump and break cue with a phenolic resin tip that is guaranteed for life. In my experience, the Sledgehammer breaks noticeably harder than a Predator BK, it is easier to control the cue ball, and it quickly converts to an excellent jump cue.

But, don't take my word for it. These two cues are radically different in both design and construction. The differences in hit and feel are substantial. For example, on several occasions, I have seen players break with a Predator BK and then unwittingly continue to use it during play. This is possible because a BK feels very much like any other Predator cue. That is unlikely to happen with a Sledgehammer because it is radically different from a playing cue, right down to the large black phenolic ferrule/tip. I don't mean to imply this makes one better than the other, only that they are quite different and deserve consideration on that basis.

Let's go break some balls!

Virtually every pool player wants their own pool table. Heck, most of us want to own a pool hall. But what are the pros and cons. How much should you spend? Who will install it? Inquiring minds want to know!


This post is geared to players who take their pool seriously and are thinking about buying a table for practice and a little friendly competition. If you are looking for a table for the kids or for occasional recreation, then a cheap residential table will probably work just fine.

The problem with pool tables is that you just can't get the characteristics of a commercial table in an inexpensive package. Whether you play in a pool room or bars, a table has a certain quality of play that you have adapted to, expect, and should emulate in your practice sessions.

In the past 20 years I have owned 4 pool tables. All of them were regulation 9 foot tables; two were inexpensive (less than $2000) residential tables and two were Brunswick Gold Crowns. I currently have a Gold Crown IV that was recently installed.

Most of us will buy a residential table because of budget constraints and an easy purchase process that often includes financing, delivery, and installation. But, from personal experience and talking with many people who have purchased affordable residential tables, it is seldom the satisfying experience we expect. They do not provide the quality of play you expect and you soon realize that the money would have been better spent at the pool room.

A pool table is a wonderful investment that will bring countless hours of inexpensive enjoyment to whole family. But don't skimp. Inexpensive tables do not play well and quickly turn into expensive storage counters.

Also, while a quality pool table is often a good investment, cheap tables are not. I bought a residential table for $1800 that I ended up selling for $400.00 (it was in mint condition). But I purchased a used Gold Crown II for $2800.00 that I ultimately sold for $2600.

How Much Space Do You Need?
This is the obvious first question, because pool tables require a lot of space. A regulation size 9 foot table requires an unobstructed space of 18' 4" x 14' 2". An 8 foot table requires 17' 4" x 13' 4". That space allows you to use a normal cue to make any shot on the table. I have known many people who installed tables in space that almost big enough. That generally turns out to be a source of constant aggravation.

The Recommendation
There are three tables on the market that I think surpass all others in providing superior play while providing good value and resale potential:

+ Brunswick Gold Crown 9 foot tables: The cream of the crop. These tables are renowned for their superior play and are found in the best pool rooms and profession tournaments. A new Gold Crown IV sells for approximately $6500.00, but used can be found for $4000-5000. Used Gold Crown I and II models are also an excellent choice and can be found in excellent condition for $2000 and up.
+ Gandy Big "G" 9 foot tables: Gandy is no longer in business, but they built an excellent commercial table that is still found in may pool rooms. These tables are solid black and generally available used at $1500-2000 + delivery and installation.
+ Valley Supreme 7 & 8 foot tables - The ZD series and Black Cat models are excellent small tables and are one of the most popular tables in bars and establishments where space is an issue. They are coin operated tables but can be easily modified for free play using traditional balls. Purchased new, they sell for $2500-3000, and used for $1500-2000. These tables are delivered almost fully assembled--you only need to bolt the legs on and level the table. The only table recommended for self installation.

Where to Buy
This is where we come to the good news-bad news. Commercial tables are generally only available through private sale or commercial dealers. That means credit card purchases or financing are not an option. The good news is that commercial dealers often have the best installers. Even if you buy your table through a third part, they won't hesitate to install and setup a quality commercial table.

Professional Installation is the Key!
Regardless where you buy your table, have it installed by an experienced professional--check their references. Horror stories abound about bad pool table installations. Ask around and find out who in your area really does a first-rate job. Ask who does the table work in local pool rooms. There are probably only one or two installers who are trusted to do the job right.

Don't Forget the Extras
When you buy a pool table, that is usually all you get--no cues, balls, rack, etc. If such items are included, they may be of very poor quality. Here is a list of items you will also need:

+ Balls
+ Cues
+ Chalk
+ Rack
+ Bridges
+ Cue Rack
+ Pool Table Light

Pool table lights can very expensive. Here you may have to strike a compromise between form and function. The best pool table lighting is fluorescent with 2 eight foot tubes or 4 four foot tubes. But most of the traditional pool table lights sold by dealers and in catalogs use standard incandescent bulbs that cast all types of odd shadows around the table. And those fancy pool table lights sell for $200-800.

I wrote earlier about the new Gold Crown IV I recently purchased for my home. I did not mention the incredible difference in the way the table played after putting on new cloth.

I purchased my table from local pool when they went out of business earlier this month. It was a table I had played on hundreds of times. I thought I new the table like the back of my hand, right down to those tight double-shim pockets. I was wrong!

When the table was moved installed, I elected to put on new cloth. The cloth that was on the table was only about a year old and had received heavy pool room use. The old cloth and the new where exactly the same--Simonis 860. I had played on tables with new cloth before but those were all newly installed tables. I had never played on the same table before and after the cloth had been replaced. I can only equate the difference to a road with bare pavement and one with black ice. You might want to fasten your seat-belt.

The first hint of this brave new world was when I racked the balls. It was like racking on a sheet of glass--there was virtually no resistance whatsoever. Then the break, where balls flew around the table with reckless abandon. It was like turning 10 Energizer bunnies loose--they just kept rolling and rolling and rolling.

The difference was quite obvious, but my brain must have had trouble processing all of this new information. As we started to play, every shot became an adventure in overshooting. On more than one occasion, one of us would presume a shot to be missed, only to have it slowly continue to roll to a pocket.

I understood the speed on this clean new surface--dirt and chalk that accumulates on the table causes a lot of friction. I was not prepared for how the cue ball would react to the use of english. I would have guessed that under such circumstances, it would be difficult to get spin on the ball. That was false assumption. Apparently the added friction of old cloth takes a good bit of spin off the ball. New cloth offers little resistance to applied spin. For example, a ball with backspin will, at some point, begin to roll forward, but on new cloth it will travel much farther before that occurs.

I had always marveled at how the pros on TV were able to make such effortless shots, even when moving the cue ball all around the table. It never connected that they always play on new cloth. Another mystery solved.

There is something very special about the look of a newly covered pool table. Now I can honestly say that there is also something very special about how they play.

Did you know that most production cues can easily have the weight changed. In fact, you may be able to do it yourself.

Most production cues made in recent years have a weight bolt system that allows the weight of the cue to be adjusted to suit the player's desire. These cues usually weigh between 17.5-18.5 ounces without the weight bolt. Then a bolt is added to bring them to a specified weight when they leave the factory. The weight bolt system allows manufacturers to mass-produce a cue and then adjust the weight to the customer's needs. Although a bolt of any reasonable weight can be added, a cue can generally not be made lighter than the cue without the weight bolt.

Most production cues are built with a weight bolt that can be easily removed and replaced by removing the rubber butt cap.

How to Determine If You Have a Weight Bold System
To determine if a cue has a weight bolt system, simply remove the butt cap. The butt cap, unless it has a retaining screw, can be easily pulled or pried out to reveal the weight bolt. The bolt usually aluminum or steel and will have a slotted, phillips, or allen head. If no bolt is visible but there is hole that extends up the butt portion of the cue, closer inspection may reveal that the hole is threaded for addition of a weight bolt.

Changing Weight Bolts
Changing the weight of the cue involves selecting a new weight bolt of the correct length, density, and thread spacing. Because a new bolt will often need to be cut to achieve the desired weight, this is a job best left to a professional cue repairman.

The Cost
If you are buying a cue from a dealer, they will most likely change the weight at no cost. To change the weight of an existing cue, most dealers will charge between $10-20. If you have the weight changed, ask for the original bolt so you can change it back to its original weight if desired.

Not Sure What Weight?
If you are not sure exactly which weight you want, consider having a set of weight bolts made in variety of weights. For example, you could get a set of three weights that make your cue weigh 18.5, 19.5, and 20.5 ounces. Once you have the bolts, they are easily changed anytime you want to experiment. Of course you could always take the process one step further and have a set of 6 bolts made in .5 ounce increments.

Consider When Buying a New Cue
When buying a new cue, it may be worthwhile to know if a particular cue has a weight bolt system, so be sure to ask. A cue with adjustable weight is more versatile in the long run and is often easier to resell.

OK, for what it is worth, I have decided to jump into the murky waters of how much you need to spend to get a good cue. Perhaps along the way, I will even try to justify why some cost $3,000, or more!

A Cue for Every Budget
For many years I played with an Adams cue which I bought new and paid $60. I have since given that cue to young man just getting started in pool. He still uses it today. I have also held in my hands the Herman Rambow cue that Willie Mosconi signed and presented to Jackie Gleason after they worked together filming The Hustler. That cue is currently for sale at billiardcue.com for $40,000. Those are two extremes. Are they both worth the price? I think so.

As in any sport, equipment plays is a very small part in our success. Knowledge, practice, and experience are the real keys to better pool. Unless you have an unlimited budget, I would strongly recommend that you invest in table time, professional instruction, and learning materials (books and videos) before buying an expensive cue.

The real reason to buy any cue, whether it is for play or a collectible investment, is because you like it and can afford it. Whether you are convinced a cue will help your game or you just want to display it in a glass cabinet for others to admire, both are a valid justification for purchase. Just be sure you know what you are buying. Unsuspecting buyers can be taken on a $500 cue as easily as one costing $5000.

When it comes to playing cues, you will often hear players say that if you pay more than $300 you are just paying for appearance. But that is not necessarily true. There are both production and custom cues with unique designs and craftsmanship which are simply unavailable at that price point. If you find a cue that feels remarkably better than anything you have ever held, and it costs $2000, then that is the price you will have to pay to enjoy that as part of your game. Does a player need a $2000 cue? Perhaps not, but that argument extends beyond dollars and cents.

If you are a beginner, all of this talk of outrageously expensive cues will not and should not make any difference. It is unlikely that you have developed the feel necessary to tell the difference. Don't worry, you will. And that is why your first cue should carry a modest price tag. Don't break the bank on something you are likely to outgrow.

So, How Much Do I Need to Spend
The beginner doesn't have to spend more than $100 to get a good quality cue. We handled Players brand cues. They are two piece cues priced at $50-100, They come in a range of weights from 18-22 oz. and have excellent construction with metal joints and LePro tips. You may also find other companies producing good quality cues in this same price range. In the $100-200 range, there are a nice selection of good American made cues by Viking, McDermott, and Joss.

The intermediate player who has refined their feel for the cue, may want to explore cues in the $200-1,000 range. At that price, there is an enormous selection of very fine cues. Used cues in that range can also be an excellent value. Not only do these cues offer the latest technology, but you will have a nice selection of wood finish, color, design, etc. In addition to the brands listed above, I would recommend Predator and Schon in this price range.

In either case, I would recommend buying from a local dealer who has a table to try the cue or offer full trade value if, within a reasonable period of time, you do not like the way the cue plays. A dealer with a table or a pro shop in a pool is ideal so you can compare any number of cues side-by-side.

The Feel Test
So how do you know when you can feel the difference? Here's a simple test. Find a dealer that handles Predator and/or Cuetec cues. Compare the feel and hit of those cues to what you are currently using. If you can tell the difference and can determine a preference, you have developed the necessary feel to explore new cues. If not, keep practicing and playing. I chose Predator and Cuetec for this test because those cues have a markedly different feel from conventional cues. In my experience, those cues are so unique that most players have a love/hate opinion about them.

Keep in mind that we are all individuals and develop feel at different rates. Some players never develop this feel. It does not mean that they cannot become great players, only that their body is not sensitive to those subtle differences. Some people eat Japaleno peppers straight from the jar while others of us are sent running for the nearest faucet.

So you want to own your own table?

It is the dream of almost every pool player--a table of their own. But do you have the room? If you do get your own table, will you ever leave home to play? Is that a good thing?

A Question of Space
The first requirement of a pool table is lots of space. At least 90% of the people who would love to buy one simply do not have the space. Here are the guidelines for the amount of unobstructed floor space required for the various common size tables:

+ 9' x 4.5' regulation table requires a 220" x 170" space.
+ 8' x 4' bar sized table requires a 208" x 164" space.
+ 7.5' x 3.5' small table requires a 200" x 160" space.

Will You Ever Leave Home Again
For many players, owning their own table is a good news - bad news situation. The good news is they can play whenever they like. The bad news is that they never go out and play other people. After all, why would you go out and pay $5.00 an hour when you have a table at home. Eventually, you may find that what you really liked about pool was the competition with and commradery of others, and getting out of the house once in awhile.

The Merits of Consistency
If you are a serious player, your game can suffer if you are not practicing on a table similar to tournament conditions. Can you hone your skills practicing on a $1000 used table to play tournaments on Brunswick Gold Crown tables?

The Bottom Line
I run into a lot of players who own a table and still come to the pool room to practice and play. I installed a new Gold Crown in the home I built in 1995, but after a year, I realized that those visits to the pool room were much more important than the convenience of anytime free pool.

Obviously, I can only speak from own experience, and as you can read, when it comes to owning your own table, I see more cons than pros. But I do know a few players who have found a happy medium practicing at home and playing elsewhere. This is obviously true if you take your pool very seriously or aspire to the professional ranks.

New players often ask "What cue should I buy?" or "What is the best cue for the money?" They want to be guided in their selection with facts and figures like you would find in a "Consumer Report Guide to Billiard Cues". They are often seem upset and confused to find there are no hard and fast rating or specification to help with their decision.

The honest truth is that you find the perfect cue by playing with as many different cues as possible. Eventually you will develop a preference for weight, balance, and feel.

With pool cues, if it feels good to YOU and looks good to YOU, it is good for your game!

The Cue Tip
It is important to know what brand and hardness of tip is on a new cue. If the cue tip performs well, you will want to replace it, when the time comes, with the same tip. If you don't like the tip, it is equally important to know its identity.

Many manufactures publicize the tip specifications used of their production cues, so ask your dealer or manufacturer. If it is a used cue or you cannot find out the brand and hardness, I suggest immediately replacing it with the brand and hardness of your choosing.

If needed, some cue professionals have the equipment to test a tip's hardness, and may be able to determine if it is a solid or laminated tip. That information will help greatly if you need to replace a tip of unknown origin.

There was a time when pool table manufacturers said "always brush, never vacuum!" You still hear that recounted today as if it were the 11th Commandment, but nowadays vacuuming is preferred if you have a good table and quality cloth.

Years ago, table and cloth manufacturers where afraid of the effects of vacuuming the cloth. Constant vacuum cleaning could have caused the cloth to stretch and loosen. And manufacturers always err on the side of safety--you can't do much damage with a brush. If they would have said it was OK to vacuum, some guy would have fired up an industrial shop-vac and sucked the cloth right off the table.

Unfortunately, pool room owners have found that brushing doesn't really clean a pool table any better than sweeping a carpet with a broom. You just rearrange the dirt and work it down deeper into the fabric. Today, room owners and residential owners alike have found that vacuum cleaning is the preferred method of maintaining a pool table.

A Little Common Sense
When vacuum cleaning your table cloth, exercise a little common sense. Use moderate suction and use attachments that are gentle on the cloth. The upholstery tool or bushless floor attachment should do a nice job on the bed of the table, and most vacuums come with a crevice tool that is ideal for cleaning under the rails and in drop pockets.

When NOT to Vacuum!
When my pool table was recently installed, I verified this information with the installer. He has over 45 years experience with billiard tables. He said that vacuuming was preferred if you have good cloth and know that the slate seams where filled with beeswax or epoxy.

These comments only apply to good quality pool tables with a high quality cloth, such as Simonis 860. If you have an inexpensive residential table covered with an unknown brand of cloth, it is suggested that you follow the manufacturers recommendation.

If you are unsure of the quality of the cloth or the filler in the slate seams, he recommends against vacuuming. The filler material is important because some installers use plaster-based fillers between the pieces of slate. Over time, this plaster can crack and become loose. A vacuum will then suck the filler out of the crack. Those pieces will remain under the cloth creating an uneven surface. That does not happen if the slate seams are filled with beeswax or epoxy.

Dirt Devil Ultra
Many pool rooms use portable vacuums such as the Dirt Devil Ultra to clean tables. This model has a rotating brush in the head and includes an onboard crevice tool. We used one of these in the room where I worked and it did an excellent job, but my home vacuum appears to do just as good of a job on my own table.

Rail Care
To care for the rails (the part outside of the cushions), any number of products work with good results; Pledge, furniture polish, or car wax.

On tables with a black finish, such as Gold Crown and Gandy, my table guy recommends Armor All (the stuff used on car dashboards). Armor All now comes in pre-soaked lint-free wipes that I have used with excellent results. Just wipe the rails, then come back in a few minutes and polish with a clean towel. I do this every few weeks. In between applications, wiping with a clean cloth easily removes chalk and fingerprints.

Caution: If you use Armor All in the spray bottle, do not spray directly on the rails. The overspray can get on the table cloth. Spray the Armor All on a dust rag and then apply to the rails.

The Obvious Advice
The following should be obvious, but are nonetheless important considerations:

1. Always keep the table covered when not in use.
2. Do not use the table as a work bench or storage area unless you have a hard cover*.
3. Remind the non-players in the household that it is a pool table and not a play surface, race track, etc.

* Some manufactures sell hard covers that allow you convert the pool table into a dining or conference table. Such covers are also recommended if you will need to use your table for a work or storage surface.

Whenever we begin play on a table, it is important to know the characteristics of that table. Then you know exactly what you're dealing with and can accurately adjust your game.

I recently read a post in one of the billiard forums where the player stated that he had put the same cloth on his home table that they use where he normally plays leagues. He then stated, "So now all I have to do is adjust for room conditions."

I am not sure what he meant by room conditions, but the implication is that two tables with the same cloth will play the same. This is a false and potentially dangerous assumption. We should never assume that any two tables play the same.

Experienced players know that it is vitally important to learn the playing characteristics of each table prior to play. In leagues and tournaments, where matches are held in new locations or where you move from table to table, the condition of the table and the balls can be radically different.

The article titled Getting a Feel for the Table by Tom Simpson is an excellent discussion of how to evaluate a table and balls for the most critical playing characteristics; table speed, pocket size, cushions, and throw. The article also provides some useful techniques for quickly performing those evaluations.

Sumo brand cue tips are new to me, but they came installed on a new cue I just purchased. I am quickly becoming a Sumo convert.

I am not prone to switching tips just to try out the latest and greatest. Years ago I found Moori tips to work well and be very consistent. I have stuck with them ever sense. Consequently, if I buy a new cue, I always immediately have a Moori put on at the first opportunity.

Since almost all new cues come with LePro tips installed, I have never questioned the need to immediately change the tip. LePro is a decent cheap tip, but I have never cared for them. But when I recently bought a new Kikel cue, everything changed. I, nor the dealer, knew what kind of tip it was, but I sure did like it. So, I elected to play with the original tip for a few days.

The WWW to the Rescue
Kikel is not a particularly well-known brand, so finding information on the web was difficult. But some persistent web searching revealed that Dave Kikel puts Sumo "Water Buffalo" tips on all his cues. That was a brand that I had no experience with, nor did I know anyone who had.

A little more research into Sumo tips revealed that they make just two tips; a solid water buffalo leather tip, and a laminated pigskin tip. They have a reputation as a "very hard" tips that does not lose its shape.

Never Say Never
It took a couple of days to come up with the above information, and in that time, I had fallen in love with the new tip. Based on the way it played, I thought I would find it was a soft to medium hard tip. It offered exceptional cue ball control with no tendency to miscue.

When I learned that these were very hard tips, I was shocked. My experience had always proven that hard tips are prone to miscues and more difficult to produce english.

In retrospect, I think the Sumo tip contributed significantly to my decision to buy the cue. Although I will never know, I wonder if a Kikel cue fitted with a standard LePro tip will reveal itself to be anything special? Perhaps, one of these days, I will put a LePro on the second shaft just to see what happens. Then I could even do some blind tests.

The Acid Test
I also have a Josswest cue that I really like, but I don't like the tip that came on it. The cue was owned by a pro player and the tip was his personal choice. Although I didn't know the brand it was, I thought I would give it a try--nothing too lose.

Bingo! I got exactly the same results from the Sumo on the Josswest cue that did on the Kikel. Now I am starting to get impressed.

The Good News
The real surprise was when I found the Sumo tip is very inexpensive. My dealer installs them $6.00 each, and you can find them online at Mueller's for $3.45 for a package of 3.

The tip on a pool cue may be one of the most important, but often ignored, keys to playing better pool. There is an ideal tip for every player, if you will spend the time to experiment and explore the various options that can drastically affect their game.

There are a wide variety of styles, brands, and hardnesses of cue tips on the market. The Mueller catalog has 27 different brands and there are a few other brands they do not carry. Some of the more popular brands are Moori, Triangle, Talisman, Tiger, and Tsunami. In addition to normal playing tips, there are also tips made specifically for break and jump cues.

Types of Tips
Virtually all tips are made of leather. Some are made from a single solid piece of leather while others are laminated layers of leather. Various manufactures choose specific types of leather, such as pig skin, cowhide, elk, water buffalo, or boar.

Laminated (layered) tips are generally more expensive, but are considered to be the best and most consistent. The number of layers (generally between 5 and 23) will vary between manufactures. Some feel "the more layers the better", but I know of no data to support that claim.

Synthetic Tips: A few years ago, some manufacturers introduced synthetic tips produced from man-made materials. They were claimed to last forever and never need shaping, but they did not have the feel and performance of leather, so they were not well received players.

Hardness
Each tip has a hardness rating, often described as soft, medium, hard, and extra hard. Softer tips make it easier to apply english to the cue ball but wear and lose their shape faster than harder tips. Harder tips wear longer and keep their shape better, but do not impart as much spin on the ball. It is much easier to miscue using a hard tip. Extra hard tips are designed primarily for break and jump cues.

The tip is without question the most important part of a pool cue. A bad tip on a great cue can render it almost unplayable.

The hardness also effects the feel of the hit. Comparing extremes, hard tips are often characterized as having a crisp or solid hit, while a softer tip will feel supple or spongy.

Some cue dealers/repairers use a durometer, a device to measure hardness. The durometer can be valuable for determining the hardness of your existing tip or comparing the "real hardness" of various tips. Such hardness ratings can then be used to guide you in the selection of a new tip.

Advice on Hardness: If you are learning the game and find it hard to draw the ball, select a softer tip than you current have. If you have a good draw stroke, but find it difficult to control short draw shots of 3-12 inches and seldom miscue, then opt for a slightly harder tip.

Consistency
Experienced players often choose a specific brand of tip based on consistency. When it is time to change tips, it is important that you don't have to relearn your game. Many brands, such as Moori, have developed a strong reputation for quality and consistency.

Selection
As you can see, the variables involved provide an infinite array of choices. If we combine the factors of brand, type, hardness, and consistency, your choices can be daunting. The selection of the proper tip can be as important to your game as the selection of good tires is to the handling of your car. Ultimately, the selection of a tip is as personal as the cue itself. Your favorite tip will be determined by your style of play, use of english, how hard you shoot, etc.

If you are a new player, realize that your preference in tips, as with your preference in cues, may change frequently while learning the game. As your fundamentals improve and your stroke is perfected and your feel for the cue is developed, your choice in tips may change. If your fundamentals are sound, consider changing tips if you experience difficulty with cue ball control.

If all of this sounds confusing, here is a short list of recommendations for tip selection:

1. Focus first on hardness and select a tip of the hardness that fits your game. Many tips are only made in a specific hardness, so this will narrow the selection.
2. Unless you have a strong preference for solid leather tips, choose a laminated tip. They have proven their superiority and will further narrow the field.
3. Consult with your cue professional and/or experienced players regarding the consistency of various brands.
4. Choose a tip that is locally available. If your pool room has a pro shop, I would choose from among those that they stock. In the unlikely event of a tip disaster, the remedy is close at hand.

One of the benefits of having a cue with two shafts is that you can experiment with tips on one shaft and do an A/B comparison with the tip you are currently using.

Be Prepared
Although tip emergencies are rare, tips do come loose and fall off, or an accident can cut or gauge the tip. If your cue has two identically tipped shafts, such emergencies are handled with ease. Players with single shaft cues, may want to carry a couple of extra tips in their cue case. This is cheap insurance in the event replacement is required but your preferred tip is not available.

Changing a Cue Tip
I highly recommend getting a professional to replace tips. It's inexpensive, they have the tools to do the job right, and they can offer invaluable guidance in tip selection. However, it is possible to do it yourself. This may be particularly handy if you want to experiment with a large variety of tips. Here are the step involved:

1. Cut the old tip off and remove any remnants of the old tip and any glue.
2. Sand the top of the ferrule so it is flat and clean.
3. Choose a new tip whose diameter is at least as large as that of the ferrule.
4. Sand the bottom of the tip to get a good bonding surface.
5. Place a drop of glue (my cue guy uses Super Glue) on the tip and turn it into place on the ferrule. The turning motion helps remove any air bubbles.
6. If you're not using a fast setting adhesive, clamp the tip to shaft until the glue has set.
7. Shape the sides of the tip to the diameter of the ferrule, then burnish the sides of the tip, and shape the top of the tip to the desired nickel or dime shape.

A Word of Caution: If you plan to do your own tip replacements, learn to do the job right. Without exception, every tip I have seen come loose during play has been the result of a do-it-yourself job. Conversely, I have never seen someone lose a tip that was installed by a professional. That is the single reason I have not journeyed into the area of self-replacement. The savings are minimal but the cost (in frustration and inconvenience) can be quite high.

Conclusion
It has been said many times, "A bad tip can ruin a good cue." Knowledgeable players are aware of the importance of thoughtful tip selection. There is tremendous peace of mind once you know you have found the perfect tip for your game. At that point, you will not need to be concerned with changing brand or hardness unless you experience a problem with cue ball control directly related to the tip.

You may have already heard the endless debate over which tip is the best. That debate is largely confined to members of the tip-of-the-month club who constantly experiment when the latest and greatest tip hits the market. Such players often change cues and equipment in an attempt to buy a better game instead of working on fundamentals. Is the tip important? Absolutely! But it makes little difference what is on the end of your cue if you haven't developed a consistent stroke and know how to play the cue ball.

That's my opinion. Your mileage may vary. Void where prohibited by law.